Exploring Nature:
Big Bend National Park Field Trip - August 11 - 15, 2009
Notes by Arboretum Program Development Director Bill Eley while on the Houston Arboretum & Nature Center trip to Big Bend National Park, August 11-15, 2009. Trip leaders: Bill Eley and Glenn Olsen.
Wednesday, August 12
After breakfast we loaded the vans and headed around the east side of the park toward the Rio Grande. The morning was delightfully cool in the Basin – around 64 degrees (and dry of course). The desert was also nice and cool (although that would change). As we entered the desert, we could see that the Texas sage was in bloom. We stopped several times for picture-taking, plant identification and Roadrunner-watching and soon arrived at Boquillos canyon, overlooking the river. This is the spot that folks used to cross the river on a makeshift “ferry” (i.e. a man in a canoe) into Mexico and visit the little town of Boquillos. At least until 9/11 happened. Now crossings are not allowed here (and the Border Patrol is around to enforce it). Really too bad for Boquillos – gringos provided the only source of income for the 100 or so residents. We hiked up over a cliff and down to the river, and were greeted by an echoing serenade from a singer (“Victor”) on the rocks on the other side of the river. He had a canoe, but we decided it was best to remain in the U.S.
We arrived back at the vans around noon, acutely aware that the cool morning temps had risen considerably. We then raced back to the lodge for a late lunch. After lunch, we went to the Panther Junction ranger station to get maps and spend a fortune on plant books. From the junction, we went back around the east side for a few miles to visit Dugout Wells, an old abandoned settlement site with cottonwood trees and a windmill. Birds were everywhere. We added Orchard Oriole, Lesser Goldfinch, Blue Grosbeak, Bell’s Vireo, Yellow-headed Blackbird, and Western Wood Pewee.
We’ve invited a couple of the McDonald Observatory volunteers (and amateur astronomers) down this evening for a star-gazing party. There are still some storms over the desert, but the sky is clearing nicely here in the mountains (and the temp is “perfect”). Tomorrow is the west side of the park.
Thursday, August 13
Headed to the west side of the park. There are a lot of options there, but we had three main destinations – Sam Nail Ranch, Terlingua, and Santa Elena canyon. Sam Nail was the first stop. It’s the site of a former ranch – no buildings left (a couple of adobe walls only), but Sam and his family put up a sturdy windmill, and it’s one of the few places in the desert portion of the park that has water (albeit a small mudhole at times). So that means birds. There is a small stream (dry right now) through the property and lots of willows, pecan trees, persimmon trees, etc. We saw Yellow-breasted Chat, Varied and Painted Buntings, and a pair of Blue Grosbeaks feeding nestlings.
Our next stop was Terlingua and Terlingua ghost town. Lunch here at the Chili Pepper. Lots of interesting characters about.
Next stop, about 20 miles away, was Santa Elena canyon. The plan here was to hike into the canyon. Unfortunately, there was water (and lots of mud) to cross so only two brave souls made it to the trail – and one was in the mud up to her knees at one point. The scenery was stunning (of course), and we spent a couple of hours here.
The plan was to head back for dinner, but we stopped at Cottonwood campground for a little birding and were, of course, rewarded. This is one of only a few places in the U.S. that Gray Hawks nest, and we were rewarded with two juvenile birds flying around and calling to each other. Also lots of family groups of Vermillion Flycatchers, Lark Buntings, and a probable Band-tailed Pigeon.
We finally tore ourselves away for the 25 mile drive back, with a brief stop at Sotol Vista for some stunning views of the desert and Mexican mountains along the river.
Friday, August 14
Today was all about hiking. Now that everyone was acclimated to the altitude they were free to do any of the hikes in the Basin, or sit on their balcony and enjoy the scenery. I think everyone opted for the former. Ed and I decided to go for gold, and hike up the Pinnacles Trail to look for Colima Warbler (the only place in the U.S. that the bird occurs). It was 3 miles and 4 hours straight up, but we saw one Colima just as we were about to head back. And then there was Rob, the superhuman of the group, who not only hiked all the way up Pinnacles, but also continued 2 miles to the South Rim, and then another 2 miles or so to the top of Emory Peak. On his return down the mountain, he passed me like I was standing still. In the three days here, Rob did most of the major hikes in Big Bend.
Others hiked to the Window, and some spent the day birding with Glenn. Most of those did at least some of the Pinnacles Trail – I ran into most of them on my way down. We’re meeting at 6:30 this evening to wrap things up and prepare for our 6:00 a.m. departure to Midland. A very successful trip!
Contact Bill
